If you’ve ever been sucked into the vortex of a flea market, or if you wile away your weekends by perusing boutiques (as I often do), chances are you’ve come upon the glory of an Indian block print dress. Indian block print dresses are an oft-knocked-off style of breezy cotton dress, typically dappled with delicate repeating patterns in soothing color palettes. The vintage clothing store I manage in LA will often have Indian block print dresses in our collection, and they are some of our most cherished pieces.
Indian block printing was put on the map in Jaipur by a craftswoman named Kitty Rae in the 1960s. Known as the “Godmother of Block Printing,” Rae was pivotal in introducing and popularizing this craft in the West. She ran the oldest block printing facility in the region called KIN Fabrics, located in the heart of Jaipur, peddling furniture fabric. In 2016, an American named Sarah Zellweger came upon KIN, a moment marking the genesis of SZ Blockprints.
After Rae’s passing, Zellweger maintained contact with her daughter, Manju, and granddaughter, Yuva, who had taken over KIN. Working closely with Manju and Yuva and KIN’s puraana blocks, Zellweger honed her eye and skill in creating her own Indian block print patterns and then ultimately launched her label SZ Blockprints out of the KIN studios. SZ Blockprints keeps the 4th-generation block printing studio alive, continuing Rae’s legacy in craft and spirit. All of their clothing is small batch, with every piece produced block by block, with each pattern fitting together like a puzzle.
Central to SZ Blockprints is their dedication to the Jaipur creative community. They provide long-term employment opportunities to over 120 skilled and dedicated local artisans, and each of the tassels used in their designs is hand-made in a women-run tassel business in Jaipur. This attention to detail and handcraft emanates from each SZ Blockprints’ design and garment and is the heart of what makes Indian block printing so singular.
Completely captivated by Indian block printing as an art form and the SZ Blockprints’ story, I reached out to Zellweger to learn more. Her responses to my questions are below.
The entire process is so human, so flawed, and that is why I think I fell in love with it.
What is it about the technique and look of Indian block printing that you find so captivating? Why have you dedicated so much of yourself to standing guard for this ancient technique?
I find the element of imperfection to be really captivating. Each piece is a museum-quality mini artwork created by a master craftsman in their element. It’s the small details, the differences of mere millimeters, that have a huge emotional impact on the overall feeling and presence of a print. The entire process is so human, so flawed, and that is why I think I fell in love with it.
Why do you think Indian block printing has endured when other fashion trends and styles have not? What sets Indian block printing apart?
Indian block prints are timeless, and I believe that’s why their prominence and endurance are limitless. The prints and process both derive from a life source that is so personal to the people who played a part in the creation of the print— the artisan who carved the wood block, the artisan who mixed the dyes, printed on the fabric, washed the fabric by hand and foot, etc., etc. The popularity of Indian block prints isn’t driven by trend; it’s driven by the innate wondering and longing for person-to-person connection.
The popularity of Indian block prints isn’t driven by trend, it’s driven by the innate wondering and longing for person-to-person connection.
Do you see Indian block printing as a much-needed antidote to the ever-growing world of fast fashion?
Absolutely. The fast fashion cycle is so careless and really skews the reality of what it means to select, purchase, and care for a garment. At SZ Blockprints, we are the absolute antidote to this harmful and destructive cycle and thrive on our distance from fast fashion.
What’s the most challenging part of the Indian block printing process?
The most challenging part is it is a wild and unpredictable process and art form. I wouldn’t describe it as challenging per se, though; it’s more of a lesson in letting go. Weather, mood, health— it all plays an essential part in the dance of the actual printing.
How does it feel knowing you’re keeping Kitty Rae’s legacy alive?
Firstly, I could never imagine taking credit for any of this, specifically keeping Kitty’s legacy (and prints!) alive, as any sort of solo mission. Every single part of the business and the design process is a collaboration. On an emotional level, Kitty’s family are my partners with whom I have grown the business, and we deeply trust one another. Our vision, which continues to refine and evolve, is symbiotic and flows together. There is an ease in these relationships, which can only be described as “meant to be.”