Michael Chinnici is the founder and CEO of Photo Workshop Adventures, a premier photography tour company offering photo-centric cultural trips in over 150 destinations across more than 50 countries. He personally leads groups to many destinations, including Cuba.
As a worldwide documentary travel photographer, he says, “[I’m] in search of authenticity, beauty and emotion. I try to meld all three of these to create images that truly evoke emotion. I capture authenticity by blending into the environment and assimilating with those around me, making others feel comfortable in my presence. I get people around me to let their guard down and invite me into their space without them even knowing it.”
The interview below expands on Chinnici’s love of Cuban life, as seen in his new book, Vanishing Cuba: Curated Photo Storytelling Collection.
You have made 24 trips to Cuba. What triggered your interest in recording your travels—and do you believe that Cuba will soon forever change?
It’s now 35 trips to Cuba. Most people who experience the people and culture of Cuba have a very positive experience, and some even fall in love with it. I immediately fell in love and never looked back. Photographically, you’re like a kid in a candy store. The photographic opportunities are all around you and seem endless. From the people, with their welcoming smiles and beautiful outlook on a very difficult life, to the architectural details, sometimes crumbling and sometimes painstakingly maintained or restored. The same goes for vintage American cars.
My book explains why I admire the Cuban people and culture. As I learned more about the people’s struggles and the effects of living in a lost-in-time environment, I gained tremendous respect for the average Cuban citizen. Combined with the unique experiences that only Cuba has, the natural beauty and history, I was compelled to write a book after documenting almost 100,000 images.
Cuba will change. All cultures do. All cultures transition. Cities expand, and neighborhoods change. Children of farmers no longer want to carry the torch for another generation. We see this all around the world. Cuba is no exception. With the introduction of smartphones and access to high-speed internet (thanks to Obama’s efforts), the people of Cuba finally got a glimpse into the world around them. Of course, Havana has seen the most significant change. The rural cities and countryside remain unaffected. Some of the most significant changes in the past five to 10 years include 4G mobile service, Uber-style taxi service, food delivery, imported foods, high-end casas, five-star restaurants, fashion brands, many newer cars on the road (rental or government-owned), and even a Costco. So it’s already changing. An unfortunate byproduct of these changes has been an increased wealth divide. The few wealthy Cubans are the only ones who can afford these luxuries. Ninety percent of the people still work for the state at fixed monthly salaries that are impossible to live on.
So the answer to your question is complex and complicated.
The big question is, will Cuba lose its soul in the process? If it does, then Vanishing Cuba will be a modern-day photographic documentation of what once was.
I co-authored a book called Cuba Style, which includes ephemera from when Havana was a southern Vegas. The remnants of that pre-revolutionary life still exist. Will it ever return?
Yes, they are only remnants of the past. The Communist Revolution killed most of this. There is now a push to bring back the nostalgia and glory of Havana. But mainly among the young creative minds who see the benefit of bringing back the art, design and lifestyle that put Cuba on the map. It’s beautiful and unique. And these are the things that set Cuba (especially Havana) apart from the rest of the Caribbean. It’s critical to maintain the soul. The key will be to bring this back without turning Havana into Disney World.
Cuba is such a complex and contradictory place. Did you intend your photos to be nostalgic or reportage?
Both. But more reportage about the nostalgia that once was. Because Cuba is so complex, it’s often difficult to access what is important. I believe the Cuban people want to hold on to the nostalgia, but they must move forward with technology and advancements. Both counter any attempts to hold on to the past. When a society has no money, the goal is to survive, and little attention is given to holding on to the past.
What appeals to you most about the current and vanishing Cuba?
Photographically, not much appeals to me about the current Cuba or the direction that the current Cuba is going. Most of Havana’s new hotels (which remain only partially occupied) are modern, cold and representative of Miami. Havana had an opportunity to stay classic, build on its past and remain unique in the Caribbean. I hope they don’t create a Miami skyline along the five-mile Malecon. That would be a shame. But it’s far less expensive to build a new glass tower than to restore or build a new historic-looking property.
New cars now outpace the classic cars of the 1950s. Classic cars are iconic and have helped define Cuba. Small mercados are being replaced by supermarkets. This all creates a better life for the Cuban people, but Havana will surely lose its soul in the process.
The vanishing Cuba is the past. Documenting a life that will eventually disappear has been my goal. But I am always careful not to depict some Cubans’ misery. I’ve never felt comfortable documenting misery. However, I realize that capturing realism is essential to documentary photography.
Something to remember about a new Cuba vs. the old Cuba: Everything we discuss can only change with investment. Probably more foreign investment than government investment. Cuba’s infrastructure, especially Havana’s, is in such poor condition that the investment must be enormous. Whoever makes these investments will likely have a decisive say in how Havana and Cuba transform.
Have you experienced any political problems in seeking out people and places that the Castro regime wanted unseen?
No. These influences exist, for sure. However, I have not encountered any censorship or pushback. Keep in mind that I am not a photojournalist. I do not report. I am in Cuba photographing for my personal projects, supporting the Cuban people, taking guests on photo tours, and introducing them to friends and experiences worthy of great photography and beautiful experiences. Everyone who I bring to Cuba falls in love and wants to return. We seriously help the Cuban people in many ways. So, I believe that I am welcome in Cuba. Many angry, very angry ex-Cubans say that no one should visit Cuba. Sadly, they have abandoned their people for their political objectives. Cuba is a complicated place. I always want to be able to help the Cuban people, whom I adore, respect and love so much.
Do you believe that your photographs will encourage restoration and revival?
I don’t see that happening. Restoring in the private sector will always be about restoring Casas and restaurants with which they can make money. The government restoration projects are excellent, but there are far too few. Average Cubans have no resources to restore their homes and buildings without a free economy and ways to make enough money to justify investments.
Your book of photos is beautifully executed. Have you done what you set out to do?
Thank you, Steven, for the compliment. Yes, I believe that I achieved what I set out to do. Printing the color photography using a seven-color process and the black and white using a tri-tone three-black process really made a difference. Using exceptional paper to retain the inks. The printer did an excellent job with prepress separations and stochastic printing to eliminate any dots. But what was most exciting was Heidelberg (Germany) adjusting the software so that we could print 11 colors on the 10-color Heidelberg press at Longo in Bolzano, Italy. Essentially, we had one of the blacks from the tri-tone process do double duty with the back from the seven-color process. This is something that I requested and could only be achieved with a software tweak.
Will you continue to spend time exploring the past and present of Cuba?
I’ve made 11 more trips to Cuba post-COVID and will continue for the foreseeable future. Cuba is always in my heart, personally and photographically. Perhaps there’s another Cuba book. We’ll see.